Lex Gurst

Inside a designer's mind.

How profound.

Costume designer, former roller derby player; likes long walks on the beach and poking dead things with a stick.
blackpaint20:

Illustration from Kaitai Shinsho
the New Book of Anatomy, 1774

blackpaint20:

Illustration from Kaitai Shinsho

the New Book of Anatomy, 1774

#nationalbowtieday #muhlenbergcollege #hashtag

#nationalbowtieday #muhlenbergcollege #hashtag

Hello Kitty is not a cat, plus more reveals before her L.A. tour

lovelyrats:

waspycurvy:

vanyanis:

thecorsetauthority:

lovelyrats:

My latest attempt at stays, one of the most difficult corsets I’ve ever made. Mad props to seamstresses who make these regularly. Btw, the unicorn is named Harold and I love him. 

I find them so much easier than a corset funnily enough
-Scarlet

As an experienced corset maker I thought I’d chime in with my ‘two cents’. I don’t often make stays as I, like Amber from Lovely Rats, also find they involve an incredible lot of labour. The binding alone can take upwards of 18 hours as the complexity of the tabbed hip line in a more historically accurate pattern requires it be done by hand (for a clean and neat finish). And that’s just for the binding, that doesn’t include drafting the pattern, preparing the fabric (silk needs to be interfaced), sewing the boning channels (which can add up to about 50), cutting the custom lengths of boning, lining….. overall much more time consuming than a 10-12 panel corset. There are more basic styles of stays that I’m sure don’t take as long (less boning and hip tabs (which would be spaced further apart to allow for machine finishing), but often those type of ‘simple’ stays end up looking like a costume, rather than a quality piece of craftsmanship. The old saying is true ‘you get what you pay for’.
I’ve attached a picture of some stays I made about five years ago. 

'Bess' stays and ensemble by Vanyanis

If I may ask, what is it that you find is easier? If there is something you do that makes the process faster/easier, I would love to know! I always love to learn new methods of construction! Do you have some pictures you could share of the stays you’ve made?

This is adorable! I love Harold the unicorn too :D If I was ever to attempt to squish my GG’s into stays, they’d be ones like this! 

This project was very similar for me to what she described there are about fifty bones in it, many of which had to be cut, filed, and tipped to size. Not to mention cording, but I like to work on cording quite a lot. The binding alone took about 17 hours straight of hand sewing to make my rush deadline, and is extremely difficult in itself because of the hairpin turns and curves in the tabs. I didn’t quite expect them to be as difficult as they were either, but I think the main difference in difficulty between stays and hourglass corsets is the sheer time consumption and amount of stitching. Not including patterning, the piece took me more than 30 hours, I can kick out a Victorian style corset in about ten.